By Dr Judey Pretorius

It’s no secret that tweens and teens are taking the beauty world by storm. Social media is filled with thousands of videos of children as young as ten rushing into beauty stores to buy the latest skincare launches, then showing off their “haul” for the camera.

According to Market Intelo, the global tween skincare market was valued at $3.8 billion in 2025 and is projected to climb to $8.1 billion by 2034. This rapid growth reflects a powerful shift in consumer behaviour — one driven largely by social media influence and changing perceptions around beauty and ageing.

What’s Driving the Phenomenon?

Today’s adolescents have a heightened awareness of skin health, beauty and ageing. With impossibly high (and often unattainable) societal beauty standards circulating online, many young girls are conditioned to believe they need beauty products to improve their appearance and prevent ageing — even before they’ve reached their teenage years.

Italian authorities recently launched a formal investigation into several brands and retailers accused of marketing adult beauty products to children. The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) stated that the companies “may have failed to make clear” that the advertised products were not intended for children, and that important warnings may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner. The products were reportedly promoted using young influencers targeting children directly.

Why Is This a Problem?

The issue is not that tweens and teens are using skincare. In fact, an age-appropriate routine consisting of a basic cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection is both safe and healthy for young skin. The concern arises when children begin using skincare formulated for adults.

Anti-ageing products are developed specifically for mature skin and often contain potent active ingredients such as retinol (vitamin A), vitamin C and exfoliating acids. These ingredients are not suitable for children’s skin and may lead to irritation, allergic reactions, a compromised skin barrier and even long-term skin damage.

Beyond the physical risks, there are psychological concerns. Experts are increasingly warning about “cosmeticorexia” — an unhealthy obsession with achieving so-called “perfect” or “flawless” skin. This fixation can result in compulsive product use and may contribute to broader mental health challenges.

What Professionals Are Seeing in Practice

Skincare professionals worldwide are reporting a rise in cases of children presenting with visible skin irritation, redness, dryness and even burning after copying complex routines seen on social media.

A 2025 study published in Paediatrics found that some children and teens use six or more skincare products in a single routine. Dermatologists have also noted an increase in eczema flare-ups, rashes and allergic reactions linked to the use of adult skincare products.

What Isn’t Safe for Young Skin?

Children should not be using products that contain:

  • Chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs and PHAs)
  • Vitamin A and its derivatives (including retinol)
  • Vitamin C, hydroquinone or strong brightening agents
  • Fragrances and essential oils

A child’s skin is biologically different from adult skin. The outer layer is thinner, natural oil production is lower and water loss through the skin is higher. Young skin is less resilient, dries out more easily and reacts more strongly to irritants.

Using adult-intended products increases the risk of redness, burning and peeling. It may also heighten sun sensitivity, raising the risk of pigmentation. Early exposure to strong actives can increase the likelihood of developing long-term cosmetic allergies.

What Children and Teens Should Be Doing

For most adolescents, a simple routine is sufficient:

  • A gentle, soap-free cleanser without fragrance, colourants or essential oils
  • A moisturiser containing ingredients such as shea butter, ceramides, fatty acids or jojoba oil
  • Daily sun protection

Mineral-based sunscreens are often a suitable option for children. Ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide create a physical barrier on the skin rather than being absorbed like chemical filters.

When introducing any new product, a patch test is essential. Only one new product should be added at a time to monitor how the skin responds.

If active ingredients are needed to treat concerns such as acne, they should be discussed with and monitored by a qualified skincare professional, dermatologist or medical practitioner.

The Bottom Line

When it comes to young skin, less is more. Anti-ageing products designed for adults are not safe for tween or teenage skin and may cause both immediate irritation and long-term complications.

Children should be encouraged to follow a simple, age-appropriate routine focused on cleansing, hydration and sun protection — free from unnecessary actives and closely guided by informed adults and professionals.

For more information, visit www.biomedicalemporium.co.za.