Lebohang Thulo visits Franschhoek, the charming little town that took the best of French living and somehow made it even better

For a first-time visitor the magnificence of Franschhoek can be a tad overwhelming. From the majestic yet rather plainly named Franschhoek Mountains and the many wine estates that line the lush, green mountainside to the quaint village in the centre, the valley is truly the answer to any pastoral fantasies. What is immediately clear as you drive in is that life in this small town is a little slower and more deliberate but most importantly, more beautiful.
I was told during our midwinter visit that the town is fabulous in any weather, but that there is something utterly charming about Franschhoek in the colder months. This is a time when the wine estates are preparing to prune the grapevines after the leaves have fallen. I was greeted with the not-so-pleasant sight of the stark naked vines after severe storms had ripped away all the leaves. Fortunately for me, the tempestuous gods of Cape weather were benevolent and I was treated to sunny, crisp and windless days.
Franschhoek’s French Huguenot background is a well known and much celebrated one. This fertile valley is where the French first made wine in South Africa over 300 years ago. Even today there is ample evidence of their stay. Many of the town’s street names and wine farms are blessed with romantic sounding French names such as La Cotte and Pierre Street. Wineries in this part of the country are exotically named Dieu Donne Vineyards or La Petite
Ferme. The Huguenot Monument on Main Street, built in celebration of the 250th anniversary of the Huguenot’s arrival in the Cape, is the cultural heart of the town. And the highly anticipated annual Bastille Festival held in the winter also pays tribute to this heritage, with many of the residents gathering to share in the fruits of their labour with the rest of the community and visitors. This being wine country, the fruits invariably come in the form of award winning wines and mouth-watering dishes from widely acclaimed chefs. What used to be a wine and food mecca has impressively established itself as a small yet compelling pocket of creativity able to delight all the senses.
To appreciate the scope of what the town has to offer, it was recommended that I meet with a winemaker, chef, potter and chocolatier; not such a difficult task in Franschhoek as you might think.
First up was the young and enthusiastic winemaker at the Mont Rochelle Mountain Vineyards, Darran Stone, who was my guide in a tour of the boutique winery’s cellars. He explained the science and magic behind winemaking. He immediately disproved my belief that winemakers are stuffy and introduced me to the unexpected joy and opulence of a glass of red wine in front of a crackling fire. Wine and wine related activities are extremely popular in this part of the world, with many wine estates opening their doors to visitors for wine tastings and cellar tours. You can also pay a visit to wine estates of historical importance such as Graham Beck Wines, the inaugural bubbly for both Nelson Mandela and Barack Obama.
And because we all know that nothing goes better with a good vintage than good food, I was excited to meet chef (and adrenaline junkie) Leigh Trout from the Mange Tout Restaurant. His food explains why Franschhoek is considered the country’s gourmet capital. With such a high concentration of award winning eateries, visitors are certainly spoilt for choice.
For more culinary delights, a visit to Huguenot Fine Chocolates was mandatory. Located on the busy Main Street, I was told they make some of the best Belgian chocolates outside of Belgium. Chocolatier Jermaine van Zyl demonstrated the ins and outs of chocolate making and explained why the sweet, dark substance is good for the soul. Together with his wonderful team at the chocolate factory, they make their delicious chocolate as you watch and they throw in fascinating chocolate facts and titbits for good measure.
Thankfully, a visit to Franschhoek isn’t just about the scenic views, decadent food and wine. The tree-lined Main Street in the heart of town is dotted with a large variety of specialist stores and charming coffee shops perfect for a spot of tea outside. There is no shortage of art and craft stores, studios and galleries.
One of the town’s most talented residents is potter David Walters, who lives and works from his home. He boasts that his home is one of the oldest in town. David designs and makes bespoke dinnerware for some of the best restaurants in the Cape and private clients. His most recent collaboration is with current ‘it’ chef Reuben Riffel of Reubens Restaurant and Bar.
Visitors are welcome to watch him work throwing clay on his potter’s wheel (with an appointment). Some rooms in his airy and light-filled house have been set up as gallery space including a room with a perfectly proportioned window, which he says was one of the reasons for buying the house. Having been a potter for 30 years, the ease with which he works makes it less art, more magic, but, for him, the craft is about the mix of heart, head and hands.
Other non-food related activities for the outdoorsy types are hiking along the mountainside, bike tours and for the brave; wine tasting on horseback. If you are still anxious about a single moment of inactivity, Franschhoek also has a very full social calendar with numerous festivals in town like the Franschhoek Uncorked Festival held in the spring. There is also the Champagne Festival and the Cook Franschhoek Festival where they have celebrity chefs come demonstrate their signature dishes.
Just in case you are still looking for another excuse to visit, the colder months in Franschhoek are known as ‘The Secret Season’ and are a great time to look out for specials as hotels and restaurants lower their rates. But, if you are like most first-time visitors, a repeat visit is definitely on the cards.