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Old Faithful 
 
‘The Berg’, as the Drakensberg is affectionately known, is a glorious stretch of high peaks and grassy foothills. It was aptly named after the ruggedly edged escarpment’s resemblance to the back of a dragon (dragon translates to draak in Die Taal) by the Voortrekkers during their trek to north. This doesn’t mean that it’s an outpost swamped by khaki-wearing mountain men eating biltong for breakfast. The Drakenberg is rich in culture and caters for every taste, which is why, after a long-overdue visit to the Berg, you always end up asking why you don’t go there more often.
But nowadays the Berg seems to have slid onto the B-list of local destinations. Perhaps it’s because there are no malls to write home about or theme parks or 3D movie theatres. The biggest towns are Bergville and Winterton – not exactly the world’s most bustling metropolises.
The more glamorous destinations might have stolen the Drakensberg’s thunder, but I reckon she’s ready for a comeback. Why? Because it’s the great outdoors, for goodness’ sake! We’re all on a mission to get kids to run around and play outside, to leave the PlayStation and computer for a rainy day and get some fresh air into those city lungs. The Drakensberg region is perfect for such activities.
And besides, this range in the centre of the country has been a trusted favourite holiday destination of South African families in Joburg and the rest of the country.
The Berg is not only about windy walks for the middle aged and pilgrimages for the unshaven either. There is much more to this marvel of the middle country.
It was the excitement of exploration that made the three-hour drive by motorcar on the N3 southbound fly by. We ducked into the back country west of Harrismith towards Puthaditjaba in the old QwaQwa and within 20 minutes realised that these hills are slightly more intimidating than the Melville Koppies.
Along the R74 towards Winterton lies the very impressive Sterkfontein Dam. The dramatic drop into the Tukhela Valley and the Northern Berg via the pothole-ridden Oliviershoek Pass sets the mood for the most exciting part of the journey. Troops of baboons look on while you dodge the oncoming transport trucks. This stretch is best navigated during the daylight hours, so leave Jozi by lunchtime at the latest, especially in winter, when it gets dark quickly. If you can’t, make the Drakensberg Mountain Retreat your overnight stop. This guesthouse has that elegant, country-home-and-fireplace feel to it, which is what this mountain vibe is all about. The furnishings are comfortable and the bedrooms tastefully decorated. It’s a destination that promises an old-fashioned holiday of lounging around, playing cards or scrabble, drinking red wine and eating good food.
The scenery in the Northern Drakensberg is dominated by one of South Africa’s most-photographed scenes – a 3 000m-plus rock face called the Amphitheatre.
We made our way towards the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife camp at the Royal Natal National Park, which offers camping and self-catering accommodation. We recommend the Tendele self-catering chalets, which are more than adequately appointed. Use this as a base from which to get lost (not literally, so please remember to sign all hiking registers) in the beauty of any one of the many hikes and more leisurely walks.
There is also a nine-hole golf course at Hlalanathi, an adventurous 12-hour turnaround hike to the top of the escarpment for fitter hikers and excursions on horseback.
Other accommodation options include the upmarket family-oriented Orion Mont-aux-Sources Hotel and Alpine Heath and Rugged Glen, which are both ideal for a fishing trip with the boys or a romantic weekend for just the two of you.
The Tower of Pizza is a casual joint that gets quite festive when it’s full. It serves unpretentious but really good… yes, you guessed it, pizza.
High tea is still a very big thing in these parts. Most of the establishments serve an array of scones, tarts, cakes, pastries and, of course, tea midway between lunch and dinner. As any traveller will tell you, food is an integral part of any travelling experience, so work up an appetite and dig in.
Halfway between the Northern and Central Berg lies Didima at Cathedral Peak. The 46km winding road dodging goats and cattle up into the heart of the mountains is absolutely worth it. The friendly locals welcome you with a smile.
As Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s premier mountain destination, Didima boasts thatched chalet-type huts that are very comfortable. Take that 4x4 up Mike’s Pass for a wonderful view of the main escarpment and the surrounding lowlands from the top of the Little Berg. If rock art and a glimpse back at the lives of the indigenous San people is your thing, check out the interpretation centre between a game of tennis or nine holes at the nearby Cathedral Peak Golf Club. Since there are self-catering accommodation facilities at this club, this is a fantastic longer family holiday option. Plenty of river activities and the nearby Cathedral Peak Hotel for the obligatory spa treatment and other entertainment options create a haven where you can really unwind.
The Central Berg has as much to offer in the Champagne Castle Hotel, Champagne Sports Resort, the Drakensberg Sun and others. That’s a trip in itself.
So may we suggest pulling out the hiking gear, golf clubs, tennis rackets, cards, a couple of good books, a case of good red wine, the binocs, camera and the rest of the family and heading south to the Berg? The mountain didn’t come to Mohammed, you know…
‘The Berg’, as the Drakensberg is affectionately known, is a glorious stretch of high peaks and grassy foothills. It was aptly named after the ruggedly edged escarpment’s resemblance to the back of a dragon (dragon translates to draak in Die Taal) by the Voortrekkers during their trek to north. This doesn’t mean that it’s an outpost swamped by khaki-wearing mountain men eating biltong for breakfast. The Drakenberg is rich in culture and caters for every taste, which is why, after a long-overdue visit to the Berg, you always end up asking why you don’t go there more often.
But nowadays the Berg seems to have slid onto the B-list of local destinations. Perhaps it’s because there are no malls to write home about or theme parks or 3D movie theatres. The biggest towns are Bergville and Winterton – not exactly the world’s most bustling metropolises.
The more glamorous destinations might have stolen the Drakensberg’s thunder, but I reckon she’s ready for a comeback. Why? Because it’s the great outdoors, for goodness’ sake! We’re all on a mission to get kids to run around and play outside, to leave the PlayStation and computer for a rainy day and get some fresh air into those city lungs. The Drakensberg region is perfect for such activities.
And besides, this range in the centre of the country has been a trusted favourite holiday destination of South African families in Joburg and the rest of the country.
The Berg is not only about windy walks for the middle aged and pilgrimages for the unshaven either. There is much more to this marvel of the middle country.
It was the excitement of exploration that made the three-hour drive by motorcar on the N3 southbound fly by. We ducked into the back country west of Harrismith towards Puthaditjaba in the old QwaQwa and within 20 minutes realised that these hills are slightly more intimidating than the Melville Koppies.
Along the R74 towards Winterton lies the very impressive Sterkfontein Dam. The dramatic drop into the Tukhela Valley and the Northern Berg via the pothole-ridden Oliviershoek Pass sets the mood for the most exciting part of the journey. Troops of baboons look on while you dodge the oncoming transport trucks. This stretch is best navigated during the daylight hours, so leave Jozi by lunchtime at the latest, especially in winter, when it gets dark quickly. If you can’t, make the Drakensberg Mountain Retreat your overnight stop. This guesthouse has that elegant, country-home-and-fireplace feel to it, which is what this mountain vibe is all about. The furnishings are comfortable and the bedrooms tastefully decorated. It’s a destination that promises an old-fashioned holiday of lounging around, playing cards or scrabble, drinking red wine and eating good food.
The scenery in the Northern Drakensberg is dominated by one of South Africa’s most-photographed scenes – a 3 000m-plus rock face called the Amphitheatre.
We made our way towards the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife camp at the Royal Natal National Park, which offers camping and self-catering accommodation. We recommend the Tendele self-catering chalets, which are more than adequately appointed. Use this as a base from which to get lost (not literally, so please remember to sign all hiking registers) in the beauty of any one of the many hikes and more leisurely walks.
There is also a nine-hole golf course at Hlalanathi, an adventurous 12-hour turnaround hike to the top of the escarpment for fitter hikers and excursions on horseback.
Other accommodation options include the upmarket family-oriented Orion Mont-aux-Sources Hotel and Alpine Heath and Rugged Glen, which are both ideal for a fishing trip with the boys or a romantic weekend for just the two of you.
The Tower of Pizza is a casual joint that gets quite festive when it’s full. It serves unpretentious but really good… yes, you guessed it, pizza.
High tea is still a very big thing in these parts. Most of the establishments serve an array of scones, tarts, cakes, pastries and, of course, tea midway between lunch and dinner. As any traveller will tell you, food is an integral part of any travelling experience, so work up an appetite and dig in.
Halfway between the Northern and Central Berg lies Didima at Cathedral Peak. The 46km winding road dodging goats and cattle up into the heart of the mountains is absolutely worth it. The friendly locals welcome you with a smile.
As Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s premier mountain destination, Didima boasts thatched chalet-type huts that are very comfortable. Take that 4x4 up Mike’s Pass for a wonderful view of the main escarpment and the surrounding lowlands from the top of the Little Berg. If rock art and a glimpse back at the lives of the indigenous San people is your thing, check out the interpretation centre between a game of tennis or nine holes at the nearby Cathedral Peak Golf Club. Since there are self-catering accommodation facilities at this club, this is a fantastic longer family holiday option. Plenty of river activities and the nearby Cathedral Peak Hotel for the obligatory spa treatment and other entertainment options create a haven where you can really unwind.
The Central Berg has as much to offer in the Champagne Castle Hotel, Champagne Sports Resort, the Drakensberg Sun and others. That’s a trip in itself.
So may we suggest pulling out the hiking gear, golf clubs, tennis rackets, cards, a couple of good books, a case of good red wine, the binocs, camera and the rest of the family and heading south to the Berg? The mountain didn’t come to Mohammed, you know…
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